herald

Monday 20 November 2017

Dinosaur pubs must change -- top food guide

OUR pubs will have to change to survive, a food guide has warned.

Gastropub L Mulligan's in Stoneybatter, Dublin was singled out by the Bridgestone Guide's John McKenna for top notch food and homegrown craft beer at reasonable prices.

Mr McKenna said that although Irish consumers had disposable income, they were now more selective and wanted to spend their money on good quality Irish produce.

He said that pubs who only offered costly mass-produced draft beer and toasted sandwiches were doomed for failure.

"The pubs are dinosaurs," he said. "I think if they reinvent themselves as gastropubs with nice wines and Irish beers, with music and with the character of the bars, then there's a future."

Seventeen restaurants were cleared from the list of the Bridgestone 100 Best Restaurants to for new entries.

The north city centre eaterie 101 Talbot Street was described as "a great restaurant but the bar has been raised by the competition".

The guide which focuses on contemporary Irish food failed to include the only restaurant with two Michelin stars restaurants Patrick Guilbaud and Dylan McGrath's Rustic Stone.

Mr McKenna, who co-authored the book with his wife Sally, said that those excluded were either overpriced or had not "found their way" yet. In Dublin, Padraic Hayden at The Camden Kitchen, Graham Neville at Number 41, Residence and Mickael Viljanen at Gregans Castle, Co Clare were tipped for greatness.

Women chefs to win praise included Christiana Righi at Taste of Emilia, Liffey Street in the city centre, Mary Ryan and Knockranny House, Mayo and Georgina O'Sullivan at Ballymore Inn, Kildare.

And Galway has become a new centre of excellence, with a cluster of quality restaurants such as Aniar and Kai Cafe and Restaurant.

Meanwhile, Waterford's Cliff House Hotel was the only new recipient of three AA Rosettes for The House Restaurant.

Judges praised The House, led by chef Martijn Kajuiter, as "a celebrated gourmet destination" where "ingredients were sourced with evangelical pride".

The Cellar restaurant at the Merrion Hotel in Dublin was the only restaurant to receive two rosettes.

clairemurphy@herald.ie

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