herald

Thursday 16 August 2018

Bono and Ali rock New York Fashion Week as 9/11 is honoured

BONO and wife Ali Hewson wowed New York Fashion Week with their latest collection by their label Edun as the show remembered the victims of the 9/11 attacks.

Critics said the latest looks presented a mix of breezy, delicate florals and edgy laser-cut silks studded with rocker metal grommets.

Bright colour lit up the runway, including some hand dying in indigo using a technique from Mali on a jacket made of recycled hemp.

There were reds from a deep clay to a light salmon in African-inspired prints, tangerine in a parachute romper and solids in a range of whites, from silvery to bright.

A diamond print was featured on slouch trousers paired with a matching halter. The print was carried over to several other looks, including a silk scarfdress with matching jersey leggings.



Africa

The company, founded in 2005, produces some of its clothes in Africa. With the help of artisan nuns in Kenya known as the "crochet sisters," the line includes their black, hand-knotted skirt and fitted dress trimmed in leather.

Hewson said in an interview before the show that Edun's latest collection is "kind of innocent but tough" as she tries to bring an "ethical" and sustainable manufacturing industry to Africa.

The fashion world stood still when the World Trade Centre came down in the middle of New York Fashion Week a decade ago, but the shows went on yesterday with moments of reflection and remembrance from the tents at Lincoln Center.

"On a day like this, we're all American," U2's Bono said after the spring preview show.

In an intimate hall at the New York Public Library's flagship, guests at Victoria Beckham's show twice stopped in their tracks on the way to their seats for moments of silence -- one for each tower -- as scheduled by the designer.

All Fashion Week events are proceeding as planned until Thursday, in contrast to the jarring halt of the September previews after the terrorist attacks, said Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, the Lincoln Center's fashion director.

On the front row at Lela Rose, she described the conflicting mood on the tragedy's anniversary: "Today is a day that is very exciting, but there is also a certain calmness, you know? Everyone can sort of just look at each other today and know exactly what each other is thinking."

Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman, wore a patriotic blue blouse and red trousers on the Beckham show.

"I didn't expect to be so emotional today, but I am," she explained.



Compassion

Designer Tracy Reese had been scheduled for her first New York Fashion Week show on September 11, 2001, and is proud to mark the anniversary at the tents on the same date this year. "New York is unlike any other city in the world.

"Everyone worked together to pick ourselves back up," she said.

Several designers said they've made donations to various organisations in memory of the dead, including Derek Lam to the National September 11 Memorial & Museum, and Donna Karan to Action America, an initiative to turn September 11 into a day of positive action and volunteering.

"We remember that day 10 years ago that changed our city forever," Karan said in her show notes.

"We remember the courage, the inspiration, the compassion. How we came together, reaffirming our strength to the world. There truly is no place anywhere like our beloved city, New York. Our inspiration."

After eight days of spring previews in New York, shows move to London, then Milan and Paris.

hnews@herald.ie

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