They say appearances can be deceiving, and nowhere is that more true than in the picture postcard village of Dunmore East.

It might do a good job of masquerading as a sedate fishing hamlet that has somehow managed to avoid the trappings of tourism.

But behind the quaint thatched cottages, pristine whitewashed buildings and the colourful harbour lies a mecca for the discerning visitor.

And if you've been wondering about those horrendous traffic jams on the N9 to Waterford of a Friday evening, wonder no more. Inside the cars are clever families in the know, sneaking quietly off to their peaceful boltholes in this coastal paradise.

If they've been keeping schtum about their holiday homes, it's because they don't want you to crowd out the picturesque village. Its quiet, lazy atmosphere is all part of the charm, so don't expect to find it glittering with brash amusement parks and gaudy attractions.

TRAP

This is no tourist trap, as the Herald discovered when it ventured to get a taste of life in the sunny south east. First and foremost, Dunmore East is a working harbour. And guests who wish to slip quietly into the coastal way of life are welcomed with open arms by the residents.

Yes, the beaches are beautiful, and the seafood is achingly fabulous. Quaint thatched cottages line the winding roads and the Guinness is good. Nonetheless, the village has somehow managed to avoid the scourge of vast busloads of noisy day trippers who suck the charm out of their target destinations. There are no rowdy stag or hen parties lowering the tone. Instead, you're likely to find couples escaping for a quiet weekend, or young families taking to the water in the quiet safety of the cove.

Waterford natives are all too aware of the gem a few miles away, which explains why so many of them escape to Dunmore East during the summer.

One such woman is Sheila Jephson, who avoids the hustle and bustle of the city by spending a few weeks in the village each year.

Relaxing on the beach with her son Robert (3) and Melanie (5), she revealed: "We went away two years ago and it was a nightmare travelling with the kids."

The pristine waters of the coves also proved an irresistible pull for Sheena Mahon from Carlow and Ian Knepper from Waterford, who opted for the calm surrounds of Dunmore East to test out their rubber dinghy.

When it comes to views, it's hard to beat this cosy sunspot.

Stretching out along the east side of the bay is the iconic Hook Head and its medieval lighthouse. Of course, the coastline can always be appreciated all the better from the water, as this reporter discovered aboard Deep Sea Charter's Keltoi Warrior boat.

Skipper Brendan Glody satisfies the whims of enthusiastic anglers, dolphin spotters and those who simply want to view the coastline from afar. When we braved the waters, alas, the fish weren't biting, but it didn't stop nine-year-old Tom Doolan from giving it his best shot. And with a capacity of 12 passengers per trip, it makes for a relaxed journey that's a world away from packed tour boats crowded with screeching, hungover tourists, hen and stage parties. As the harbour also attracts visits from some of the world's largest luxury liners, the Warrior also gives its passengers the chance to get up close and personal with the giant ships out in the bay.

However, some of the younger visitors currently holidaying in Dunmore East have a more hands-on approach. Nestled in the corner of the harbour, Dunmore East Adventure Centre is currently doing a roaring trade in kayaking and sailing lessons, along with archery, windsurfing, power-boating and canoeing.

Of course, when it comes to a spot of aquatic acrobatics, observers could learn a thing or two from 12-year-old Rob Russell from Meath and his cousins Sean (10) and Ciaran (12) Saunders from Dublin.

PLEASURE

Under the watchful eyes of their mothers, the trio were busily cannonballing off the platforms as the sun beat down overhead.

"We've been coming here since they were babies," said Sean and Ciaran's mother Sandra. "They do the adventure camp and they get to do canoeing and kayaking. They're in the water most of the day and they love it."

Dunmore East is a village that could teach its neighbours a thing or two. It has managed to achieve that rare feat of providing top-class attractions for visitors without sacrificing its village feel. Oh, and if you haven't yet had the pleasure of a visit, it's hardly a secret that Dunmore East is ahead of the game when it comes to culinary delights.

Feeding time at this sedate zoo is a world away from a greasy row of fish and chip shops. Instead, hotspots like the Cliff Bar and the Spinnaker serve top-notch seafood fresh off the boats. And when the day draws to an end, as we discovered to our delight, there's no shortage of authentic thatched bars waiting to quench your thirst.

- Aoife Finneran