A big lump of rock, stuck out in the middle of nowhere -- what's the big deal? When you get to Ayers Rock, you will know, says Brenda McCormick. It shakes the very foundations of your being. .

It's a big red rock in the middle of nowhere, yet Australia's Uluru (Ayers Rock) played host to more than 335,000 foreign and domestic visitors in 2007 -- a whopping 41pc of them European. It's probably one of the best-known objects in the world and I, like so many others, was determined to get a look at it while I was in Australia.

Many people choose to make the round trip from Alice Springs, 465km away, but there are lots of options closer to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. The nearby Voyages Ayers Rock Resort is a subtle, low-lying cluster of accommodations and amenities minutes away from the small airport. There's everything from the rustic Outback Pioneer Hotel (with a great bar) to the plush and lovely five-star Sails in the Desert Hotel, which is also home to the impressive Mulgara Gallery.

Impressive

When you first see Uluru (from the air, in my case), you realise it is, indeed, rather big, which is probably what Englishman William Christie Gosse thought when he stumbled upon it in 1873. (It was he who named it Ayers Rock, after Chief Secretary Sir Henry Ayers). Up close though, it's just enormous, measuring 9.4km in circumference and standing 348 metres tall. It's not as smooth as I thought it would be, not at all . . . you could easily spend all day standing in one spot, watching light and shadows move across its curves and hollows.

There is something special about Uluru when you see it for yourself. In his book, Down Under, travel writer Bill Bryson suggests it's as if some tiny part of your DNA suddenly stirs, recognising the place in a primal way. It's really hard to explain the effect. It's like a big, comforting presence and driving away after a five-hour walk around its base, I wanted to turn around and do it again (and not just because we had a very attractive guide!).

Uluru is a fascinating place, both in geological terms and for its spiritual importance for the local Anangu, the traditional owners of the land. On the Discovery Ecotour, the Uluru Walk, ($113, approx €70 per person) our guide Leigh explained the formation of the rock, why it differs so much from nearby Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), and talked us through the local plants and animals. He also told us some of the Aboriginal 'Tjukurpa' or creation stories, so it was almost as if the curves and lines of the rock came alive. It was fascinating stuff.

On the contentious topic of climbing Uluru, it is made perfectly clear that the Anangu would prefer if people didn't climb it. As well as being a treacherous climb, one which people have died attempting, this place is sacred. Leigh put it into vivid context when he said it would be like clambering over a Christian church. Most people, whether they understand or share the beliefs or not, endeavour to be respectful of religions while travelling. I don't understand why the same respect isn't afforded to the Anangu.

Unique

The National Park is also home to the other mighty rock formation Kata Tjuta. There are only a few areas open to tourists and one of the most popular tours involves the beautiful Valley of the Winds walk. There are numerous tour options available, including the AAT Kings Valley of the Winds Walk, Sunset & Barbecue Dinner ($165, approx €100), which rewards the participants of the somewhat arduous walk with bubbly and great food later!

One of the most unique things to do here is the award-winning Sounds of Silence dinner ($153, approx €94). The evening starts with a champagne reception, with Uluru on one side and Kata Tjuta on the other. At sundown, guests are ushered to the beautiful dining area set up in the middle of the desert. Then you just sit back and immerse yourself in good food, wine, and conversation under a blanket of stars.

It is undeniable that the Uluru and Kata Tjuta National Park is in the middle of nowhere, but there are flights from all over Australia and plenty of bus tours so it's easy to get there if you want to. Is it worth the trip? Well, something I overheard while watching the sunset at Kata Tjuta pretty much sums it up: "It doesn't matter how many photos you take, it's never going to be as awesome as standing here looking at it." That's exactly what it is: in the truest sense of the word, it's awesome.

- Brenda McCormick