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Friday, March 19 2010

Health & Beauty

Season to be berry

DAMSON DELIGHT: Keira Knightley rocks the look with purple silk, jewels and those essential smoky eyes.

DAMSON DELIGHT: Keira Knightley rocks the look with purple silk, jewels and those essential smoky eyes.

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By Kirstie McDermot

Wednesday November 25 2009

Okay, so I know we're all bored to tears and back again with breathless, gasp-style beauty pieces on damson lips (very, very hard to pull off unless you've got flawless skin, great hair, a wardrobe full of edgy couture and a sample-sized figure), so thankfully the topic at hand today is eyeshadow.

There, I feel calmer already. Graphic violets had a moment this time 12 months ago but shades are altogether more dramatic this year, with celebs such as Twilight's Kristen Stewart and smoky-eyed stalwart Keira Knightley both showcasing damson hues. But much like any of this season's goth-inspired slap, I do get flashbacks to Hallowe'en of yore when I dickied myself up in a bin-liner and used lashings of my mother's cranberry eyeshadow for that oh-so-flattering and convincing witchy effect.

I'm not alone: lots of us avoid purples like the plague for fear that we'll end up looking like we came out worst in a fight. So, I reckon we need some pro tips on how to wear the shade. MAC's senior Irish make-up artist, Lesley Keane, is just the expert to ask. "Purple is difficult to work with," she admits. The trick, though, is to make sure you really pay attention to your concealer, to tone down any dark circles and redness around the eyes.

"Do it last," suggests Lesley. "Once you've got your shadow finished, clean up with a cotton bud and apply concealer carefully around the eye. Then buff it in for a flawless finish. Don't be afraid to buff some over the top margin of the shadow for an airbrushed look."

Gotcha, but how do you kick it all off in the first place? While you're quids in if you have green eyes because the shade is a great match for your colouring, Lesley reckons anyone can pull it off. Firstly, decide which purple you want to go for.

"There are so many," she advises. "You've got plum, aubergine and vibrant violets to play with, so decide on the level of impact you're comfortable with. "The full-on smoky look can be hard to achieve with purples," reveals Lesley, who recommends building the shade in layers on the lid and blending out into the socket with a brown or grey shadow.

"This looks softer and more modern on the skin," she says.

You can build more intensity by lining the eye first with a dark kohl pencil and layering shadow on top but, as with all dramatic looks, Lesley's insistent that there is one thing you need to ensure. "Make sure you feel comfortable with your make-up, because if you're not, it just won't look right."

Inspired to try the look for yourself? Here are the purples, burgundies and damsons to check out this season.

1 Thrice as Nice

Bourjois launched its lovely little Smoky Eye Trios this month and Violet Romantic, €10.99, couldn't be more on-trend. Here's a tip: use these fellas wet for extra intensity. At pharmacies.

2 Grown-up Glam

Lancôme's Christmas collection provides shades to create a grown-up take on the smoky eye. Ombre Absolue Quad in Feline Plum, €45, from department stores and pharmacies.

3 Mac Attack

Fashion-forward shades have always been a staple of the MAC roster and this year's launches are no different. The Sorceress Palette in Magnetized, €48, contains six shades of purples, charcoals and silvers. At Brown Thomas and BT stores.

4 Cheap as Chips

17's Solo Eyeshadow in Punky Purple, €4.89 at Boots stores, is a bargain, but there's little compromise on quality, with strong pigment and a creamy finish.

5 Backlash

New from cheapy faves Barry M is a suite of Glitter Lashes pens at €7.50. My pick is purple: paint it on to the tips of lashes as you would a lipgloss, and hey presto -- sparkly, attention-grabbing peepers.

6 Diamond LIFE

New at Arnotts is Swedish-brand Make-Up Store, who look set to rival MAC for rainbow-hued brights and excellently pigmented eyeshadows.

I immediately fell for Strazz Bubblegum Eye Crystals, €12. This little pot of stick-on sparkly goodness will ramp any purple look up a notch or five.

7 All That Glitters

A great way to add an extra dimension to a dark smoky eye is to wash some glitter over the top, and while Collection 2000's Glam Crystals Dazzling Gel Liner in Spandex, €4.70, is meant as a liner, it works just as well patted on with fingers for eye-opening sparkle.

Find it at Boots.

8 Line Up

Liner is the ultimate aid if you're unsure how to wear shadow or not proficient with blending and contouring. Clinique's Brush-On Cream Liner in Violet Luxe, €18, is perfect. It's a limited edition and you can find it in pharmacies and department stores.

9 Paint it on

Pigment pots can be a great way to use a shade because you can build and layer the intensity. If you're bored of Barry M's offerings and too broke for MAC, check out selected River Island stores, for the affordable Models Own brand. Powder Eyeshadow in Deep Mauve will set you back €5.60.

10 Shimmer and Shine

Dior's 5 Couleurs Iridescent Palettes, €51, aren't cheap, but you do get five shadow shades and a cute case. Smoky Crystal is a newbie and it contains mauve and silver shadows in shimmering finishes. A real treat purchase, at department stores.

- Kirstie McDermot

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