Beauty marketing is a strange and contrary beast: before you've finished that pot of allegedly life changing moisturiser, there's a new ad trumpeting its new, improved formula.

Uh oh -- did that mean it wasn't any cop in the first place, or is it all a load of Boswellox? Last year, you probably wouldn't have cared too much, and you'd have gone out to your nearest department store and laid down another €70 or €80 on another pot. If it didn't work -- ah well, feck it. But things are very different now and there's a rare woman out there who's not thinking twice (or even three times) before handing over her credit card for a pot of Crème de la Mer. We're looking for effective, affordable options, but is it possible to buy cheaper skincare that performs?

"Absolutely," confirms Beacon Dermatology's Dr Jane Mulrooney. "While there are a couple of good supermarket brands such as Olay and L'Oréal Paris, typically you'll find the best ones in pharmacies, and the benefit of that is that there will be trained staff on hand to give advice too," she says.

So, how do you work out what's actually worth laying down cash for? It can often seem like you'd need a degree in cosmetology to unravel the mysteries of moisturisers, but actually, it's not as tricky as it seems. To start with, all you need is a bit of basic information about who owns what, and then you'll be away on a hack.

Disguise

The truth of the matter is that while supermarket, department store and pharmacy shelves groan under the weight of a ton of brands, a significant number of them are owned by just a few corporations such as Estée Lauder, L'Oréal and Johnson and Johnson. Estée Lauder owns its eponymous line as well as Clinique, Origins and Prescriptives, L'Oréal houses Lancôme, Garnier and Vichy in its skincare stable, and Johnson & Johnson counts the Aveeno, RoC and Neutrogena companies in its line-up.

These beauty giants have ample cash to spend on research and development into new ingredients and technologies. They have the personnel and wherewithall to conduct clinical trials to support their findings, and they can sell products at reasonable costs due to the sheer volume of stock they move.

So while the skin-plumping Pro-Xylane technology was developed under the Lancôme banner and used in Absolue Premium Bx, €145, it soon moved down the ranks into L'Oréal Paris' affordable Derma Genesis line and is now also found in products from mid-price La Roche-Posay as well as forming the core of Garnier's UltraLift Pro-X moisturisers.

Estée Lauder's Youth Molecule, Resveratrate, was eight years in development and debuted in 2008's Ultimate Youth Creme, which retails at a cool €245. But in time-honoured tradition, the technology is trickling out to other brands in the Lauder fold: September sees the launch of Prescriptives' Comfort Night cream, a sight cheaper at €58, but which uses the same ingredient.

And of course, where one brand leads, others follow: Guerlain have been plundering the botanical world for years with their orchid-derived Orchidee Imperial line. But with prices in the hundreds for some of the products, it's out of the reach of many. Nice to know, then, that Garnier have harnessed the power of the plant in their Vital Restore range, isn't it?

Similarly, peptides are big news in skincare, and none more so than Syn-ake, a potent mix that's synthesised from the venom of the temple viper. You'll hand over €65 of your hard-earned for a pot of Planet Skincare moisturiser, but budget store Aldi are on the case: snap up Lacura Wrinklestop, which contains the exact same complex, for a mere €15.

It's worth noting that with inexpensive spends you could be getting a lower concentration of the active ingredients, meaning it will take longer to show results. Despite that, we're still reaping the benefits of hard science, research and proven ingredients -- which is good news for cash-strapped consumers.

It's been a bumper year for new launches at the pharmacy and supermarket. Here's our pick of the high-performance bunch.

1. NO.7 PROTECT & PERFECT INTENSE BEAUTY SERUM

The spiel: "No7 Protect & Perfect Intense Beauty Serum has been tested like no other cosmetic anti-ageing product in an independent 12 month double-blind randomised controlled trial. The findings clearly show that it has genuine, long term anti- ageing benefits as it makes a visible and structural improvement to the skin."

The reality: This is a product that really has been proven to work. But what you might not know is the level and type of retinol in this product is less than that in other brands, so it will take longer to show effects.

Who's it for? A ramped-up version of the original serum, this is one for ladies with deeper lines and wrinkles.

Price: €26 at Boots stores.

2. ROC MULTI CORREXION

The spiel: "The powerful RoC technology inside the Multi-Correxion range contains Retinol, vitamin E, vitamin C, UV filters and light reflectors."

The reality: RoC's new Multi Correxion line claims to fight five signs of ageing thanks to proven skincare ingredients, including the holy grail, retinol (vitamin A), which is capable of turning back time on ageing skin.

Who's it for? 30 and upwards. Start young to reap the maximum benefits as skincare works best as a preventative measure.

Price: One product for both night and day, saving you cash -- you'll lay down €34.95 for a bottle of Day & Night Cream.

3. GOOD SKIN LABS LUMECIN OVERNIGHT BRIGHTENING GLUCO-PROTEIN TREATMENT

The spiel: "A revolutionary, overnight skincare treatment with an exclusive combination of ingredients to help restore the look of brightness, smoothness and texture of your skin."

The reality: Good Skin Labs has an excellent pedigree as a new 'sciency' arm of Estée Lauder, lending their products weight. Brightening treatments are a new buzz in skincare, and this one works while you get your zeds, giving you results in about a month.

Who's it for? Anyone concerned about dull-looking skin and age spots.

Price: You'll bag a tube exclusively at Boots stores for €43.50.

4. GARNIER VITAL RESTORE

The spiel: "Garnier have created Vital Restore, our first skincare range with a unique combination of orchid extract and soy bio-proteins. The formula helps to rehydrate, reinforce skin's structure and protect against the appearance of age spots so skin's radiance restored and looks revitalised."

The reality: Rich and hydrating, this will provide plumping benefits for older skintypes, but it may take two to three months use to see a reduction in the appearance of age spots.

Who's it for? Vital Restore is aimed at the 50-something market.

Price? €13.99 for the day cream, making it a very affordable option.

5. VICHY LIFTACTIV RETINOL HA TOTAL WRINKLE CARE

The spiel: "Vichy invents LiftActiv Retinol HA Total Wrinkle Care containing a unique combination of the two most powerful and effective anti-wrinkle active ingredients to simultaneously correct all three types of wrinkles, irrespective of their stage."

The reality: It truly is the year of vitamin A: Vichy have made their first foray into the retinol market with LiftActiv, and they've supported their findings with clinical studies. You can expect to see some reduction in lines and wrinkles in four weeks.

Who's it for? Anyone worried about the first signs of ageing, though the 30-40 age bracket are the ideal target. Beware sensitive types: retinol can be irritating, so if you're prone to flare-ups from skincare, this isn't for you.

Price: €33.50 from pharmacies nationwide.

- Kirstie McDermott