herald

Friday 31 October 2014

Flash forward

In November 2008, Mintel, the mega-corp market research people, predicted a few beauty trends it reckoned would rule the grooming roost in 2009.

Austerity chic, sustainability and beauty foods were the trio it tipped for success, but did its crystal ball gazing turn out to be true? Yes, actually, they did: the state of the global economy occupied many minds towards the end of last year and Nica Lewis, head consultant of Mintel Beauty Innovation said at the time that: "2009 will be all about survival of the fittest in the beauty industry. Consumers are going to demand value for money as well as visible results, and they will stick to the select number of brands they can truly trust."

How right she was, 2009 saw long-standing brands such as Prescriptives and B Never Too Busy to be Beautiful go down the pan, to much shock and awe.

The super-trend towards organic cosmetics has been gathering pace over the last few years, and has moved from its previously muddled ethos -- obsessed with additives and parabens -- into something that's of importance to the world at large: as a champion for ethical ingredient sourcing and sustainability of ingredients used, organics are finally setting a standard.

And beauty foods? Oh boy, did we see an upsurge in these edible babies. Who can forget collagen marshmallows? Brands such as Academie and Rodial debuted tanning supplements in ingestible form.

So far, so good, and well played, Mintel. But will its predictions for 2010 be as spot on? Only one way to find out -- let's check 'em out.

Mood Beauty

What it is My first thought was those hideous green lipsticks that turn pink -- but read on. It's relatively common to purchase beauty buys with 'mood-enhancing' properties, but these are generally down to the essential oils or fragrances used. But, says Mintel: "In 2010, consumers will be able to enhance their mood through make-up and skincare, going beyond aromatherapy and simple use of scent."

Mood beauty, they purport, will create "a new beauty space, intersecting psychology and wellbeing with beauty products that offer psychological benefits and ingredients that act on people's neurotransmitters."

We can expect cosmetics companies to make use of textures, temperatures and sounds, and create make-up that switches on and off. Lastly, says Mintel, "the idea of beauty sleep will take on new meaning, as cosmetics claiming to induce positive moods or improve sleep quality inject new life into night-care products".

What you can buy now Right now, the concept of mood beauty largely deals with products that can adapt to your skintone or change texture or colour. Creative Nail Design's recently launched Colour and Effects range, €15, has found a fan in Rihanna. Basic crème in 40 shades is supplemented by 15 effects topcoats which change the look of the base colour. Shimmer, iridescence, pearl and sparkles transform a basic mani into something much more dimensional at the flick of a brush. From CND stockists, call 01 429 5122 for one near you.

Look out for Brands will launch products containing adaptogenic ingredients, such as rhodiola. Adaptogenic is a term used by herbalists to refer to any herb that is thought to increase the body's resistance to stress, trauma, anxiety and fatigue, making these sort of ingredients ideal for the trend.

Nu Natural

What it is Perhaps fuelled by the fact that so many organic products under-perform, Mintel predicts a rise in products that blend ethical concerns, such as authenticity, provenance and local production, with synthetic actives that actually work. 'Nu Natural' is a vision of natural that is less focused on certification and more focused on results, efficiency and safety," Mintel opines. Less emphasis will be placed on organic certification -- which can have the effect of reducing a product's efficiency and shelf-life -- and more on hybrids that will use formulas, infusions and fluids.

What you can buy now Origins' Starting Over moisturiser, €50, has just been launched at Arnotts, and contains lots of plant active ingredients to deliver optimum results.

"We look to nature for inspiration and science for validation," reveals Lieve Declercq, global spokesperson of plant physiology and molecular biology at the brand. Mimosa is the secret weapon in this cream, but why? "Specifically, the bark of the mimosa tree helps skin boost its own natural collagen," says Declercq.

Look out for Companies will begin to create hybrid natural cosmetics by formulating them "with a new generation of phytochemicals, anthocyanins and fermented actives," says Mintel.

JARGON

What it is You could hardly move in 2009 without bumping into a beauty product that didn't have an SPF built in, and this year looks to be no different. Mintel say that in 2010, things will be even more jargon-tastic: "Marketing language is already growing more robust, borrowing from computer technology (eg "firewalls"). Packaging, too, will expand beyond traditional glass and plastic to materials such as neoprene and concrete," they predict.

It won't just be about SPFs though as we'll also see growth in products that will boast immune-boosting and skin-defending capabilities, as well as new products that contain ingredients from extreme environments, such as deserts and arctic tundras.

What you can buy now Dr Howard Murad is at the forefront of ethnobotany and he routinely uses plants and fruits from extreme environments to add super-charged powers to his products. Intensive Resurfacing Peel, €180, contains durian fruit, a natural wonder that's got anti-inflammatory benefits and is packed full of essential fatty acids and antioxidants to help prevent cell degeneration. www.murad.ie.

Look out for "Expect more healthcare actives such as rhodiola rosea, griffonia and superoxide dismutase to appear in 2010's beauty products, forging a stronger link with nutricosmetics," advise Mintel.

Turbo Beauty 4-G

What it is Turbo Beauty 4-G is a high-tech new trend powering its way to a beauty counter near you. Using advances in biochemistry, the trend will usher in beauty products with stronger capabilities than ever before.

"Expect more quasi-medical results and 'mix-it-yourself' solutions and at-home kits and cures that offer alternatives to cosmetic surgery and non-invasive procedures," predict Mintel.

Marketing gets a look in, too, in high-tech 2010. If you're a user of social media sites such as Facebook or Bebo, you can expect to be more aware of new launches than ever before, as the beauty industry seeks to influence and target so-called 'digital natives'.

What you can buy now Vichy Aqualia Antiox Serum and Powder, €30, is a new generation cosmetic available from pharmacies. You mix the two supplied ingredients together to activate the products' capabilities, and you then store the mix in your fridge for up to 21 days.

Look out for "In 2010," says Mintel, "products will increasingly include medical or pharmaceutical-grade active ingredients and next-generation nanotechnology. Clinical testing to substantiate claims and results will move from prestige into 'masstige' (affordable for general consumers but positioned as luxury)."

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