Pat McGrath is one of the world's top make-up artists: responsible for so many of the avant garde looks we see paraded down the fashion week catwalks of London, Paris, New York and Milan.

She's a powerhouse of creativity and an artist all the rest tip the nod to. The woman behind the new Dolce & Gabbana line of posh purchases and the brains behind the superb Giorgio Armani suite of high-end cosmetics, surprisingly, she's not a beauty snob: McGrath is also the global creative design director for mid-price Max Factor.

Working with the industry's top models, magazines and photographers, she's one of the most prolific and respected faces in the industry.

"I worked with her about six years ago in London," reveals Irish make-up artist Ken Boylan, one half of artist duo Boylan and Balfe. "She's not what you'd expect working in fashion, she's a big lady, but she's very unassuming and sweet. She was the boss and a bit untouchable -- but she's someone who is very good at her job."

That praise is impressive, but here's the really startling thing: McGrath uses her fingers to achieve what others have only half a chance of getting right with an arsenal of brushes.

"We all use our hands," reveals Boylan, adding, "after all, they're the best tools you have."

This is pretty big news to women who are constantly told that the only way to apply make-up is with professional brushes. But while Boylan is quick to dismiss sponge-ended applicators that often come with eyeshadow -- "you just can't put make-up on properly with them" -- he's pretty flexible about the rest of it. "Oh, you can use your fingers for loads of things," he confirms, laughing, "in fact, I once forgot my brushes at a fashion show and had to make up 20 models by hand."

"I am definitely a brush person for foundation, though," he admits. "I just can't get the flawless finish I want when I use my fingers."

Rules

The upshot? Don't feel like you're breaking beauty rules if you don't own 45 pro brushes from MAC. Boylan reckons a decent set can contain as few as six or seven. "I personally won't be without a foundation brush and you should also invest in one for powder as sponges tend to press powder into one area," he says. His basic kit would also include four eye brushes (one for placing shadow, one for blending, one for detail work and one for brows) and a blusher brush too.

Ailbhe O'Brien, Custom Blend ambassador for Prescriptives and their senior make-up artist, agrees: "You definitely need foundation, powder, blush and at least three eye brushes," she calculates. But she reckons you can save a bit of cash on the brow one by using an old, clean mascara wand instead.

That's going to cost a fair whack of cash -- most decent brushes will be upwards of €25 -- so are they really worth the spend? Boylan reckons so: "Women often come to lessons complaining that they can't apply make-up, and a lot of that is because they're not using the right tools," he says, adding, "by the end of the session, they're converted because they've realised the finish they can achieve using brushes. In particular, it's very hard to get that meltingly blended eyeshadow effect without them."

Cost is a factor for all of us these days, so if you do want to build a kit of decent beauty tools, remember that, while they may be expensive to begin with, they'll give you years of service and should rarely need replacing, provided you take good care of them.

"Once a week, wash them with warm water and mild shampoo," advises O'Brien, adding that even if you don't do this with most of your brushes, your foundation brush really needs regular attention as liquid products can harbour bacteria.

Brush-up

So, what should you have in your kit? It's tempting to save cash and go for cheaper options, but it'll cost you in the long run. If you really can't splurge, the Body Shop and Ruby & Millie both do decent brushes at a mid-price point.

1. Powder Puff A powder brush should have a decently sized head, and be soft against the skin so that it can quite literally apply a whisper of product, and no more. Space NK's is ideal and while it costs a hefty €67, it should never need replacing. Available at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum.

2. Good Foundations While many make-up artists favour flat, paintbrush-style foundation brushes, I won't be without my MAC 187 brush. It buffs on liquid foundation for an airbrushed finish and is well worth the €45 spend.

3. Blush Up A gently contoured brush is a must for blusher, and Smashbox's #16 is ideal. At Arnotts Project and Clery's for €38.

4. & 5. Eye Like It Many of my favourite brushes are from the queen of natural make-up, Bobbi Brown. Her Eye Shadow Brush (4) is ideal for placing shadow on the lids and Eye Blender (4) can then be used to gently mix shades and blur out hard edges. Both cost €34.50 at Brown Thomas and House of Fraser, Dundrum. Liner can be precisely applied with Laura Mercier's excellent eye liner brush (5), €30, at Brown Thomas.

Finger Fabulous

Not into the whole feckin' around with brushes malarkey? Phew -- there are loads of buys out there that mean none are necessary. "Cream blusher and lipstick can both be put on by hand and I always apply loose powder shadows with my fingers because it ends up all over your face otherwise," advises Ken Boylan.

A. Lip service Red is one of the hardest shades to get right, but happily application is no longer a problem, as the new way to use lipstick is to pat it on gently with your finger, for a bitten, undefined look. NARS' Manhunt, €25, is great for scarlet novices as it is semi-sheer. At Brown Thomas.

B. Cover Up Concealer is another you can easily apply with fingers as the heat of your hands helps to manipulate it and set it in place. I love Lancome's Effacernes concealer, €27, but Benefit's Erase Paste, €28, is also a fave. Both at department stores.

C. Flush Blush One of the best launches I've seen in years is Illamasqua. Their cream blush comes in 14 shades and you get a lot of product for your €20 spend. At BT2, Grafton Street.

- Kirstie McDermott