Television tends to inflate things to the point where the ordinary is hailed as extraordinary and the mediocre as special. Witness the return of Gavin & Stacey.

"A big moment now," began the continuity announcer when introducing the third and final series of James Corden and Ruth Jones's sitcom about a young couple and the various characters orbiting them. All that was missing was a drum roll.

And yet I still can't understand why. I still can't fathom the appeal or the acclaim.

It's surely a sign that British TV comedy is in the doldrums when a modest little series that started out in the backwater of BBC3 has somehow clawed its way up to being a mainstream phenomenon, along the way picking up truckloads of awards and an adoring fan base who'd have you believe it's the best thing since sliced white bread.

Describing one programme as a cross between two other programmes is a cheap way of making a point (I know; I've done it myself). Gavin & Stacey has been described as a cross between The Royle Family and the suburban satires of Alan Ayckbourne, which is doing a disservice to both.

The now-married Gavin and Stacey (Matthew Horne and Joanna Page) have relocated to Wales. Essex boy Gavin is missing home. Back in Essex, Gavin's best mate Smithy (James Corden, an increasingly unappealing, unpalatable, unfunny presence, even in something he's co-written) is also feeling lonely and bereft -- but only temporarily.

By the end, everyone has gathered in Wales for the christening of Smithy's son by Stacey's toughnut, chain-smoking best friend Nessa (Ruth Jones). Further heartache awaits Smithy, though, when he discovers the christening do is doubling up as an engagement party for and Dave.

There are a few good things about Gavin & Stacey, most of them to do with the performances of the older actors: Pam Ferris as Smithy's narcoleptic/alcoholic mother; the great Alison Steadman and Larry Lamb (currently being squandered as Archie in EastEnders) as Gavin's parents.

But the trouble is they're playing grotesques. Every character in the thing, with the exception of the supremely dull Gavin and Stacey themselves, is an oddball or a misfit, and they all run around bumping into one another, but never once tripping over a good joke. Sorry, but I'm baffled.

In contrast, Misfits, the brilliant comedy about a quintet of Asbo teens struggling to come to terms with their newly acquired superpowers (though poor Nathan, played by the wonderful Robert Sheehan, has still to discover what his is) has more good jokes and great ideas than it knows what to do with.

Just when you think things might be slowing down and starting to move in a circle -- WHOOSH! -- it kicks off in a wild new direction.

The best thing on television at the moment. I'll bet it doesn't win any awards, though... Not like Gavin & Stacey.

FOR TOMORROW: Pat reviews The Late Late Toy Show (RTE1) and bids farewell to The Armstrong & Miller Show (BBC1)

- Pat Stacey